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A: We build our doors to order and suggest ordering a door at the exact size that's needed. If time is of the essence and you must alter a door in local inventory, you can cut a maximum of ½" from the top and 1½" from the bottom or 1" on doors with UltraBlock® technology. Any more and you run the risk of impacting the structural integrity of the door. We do not suggest trimming the door in width other than for a bevel or minor prep work. For Fire-Rated doors, please contact customer service since this varies by the type of door.
A: Every location is different (different weather, different exposure for a particular door) and every door is different (design, wood species, potential upgrades), it always makes sense to check with a local finishing expert. They will know the best products to use for the region. Fortunately, there are many good options available.
A: Simpson offers over 100 standard glass options with the ability to make any custom glass design a homeowner can dream of. And while it’s difficult for a retailer to have all options on display, Simpson Authorized Dealers carry full-size doors and a variety of smaller glass samples to represent many of the options. To get a better idea of the doors on display in a showroom, view the Displaying Authorized Dealer listings by visiting Where to Buy. In addition, check out our "Glass Taste Test” web application, which allows homeowners to see what type of glass gives them both the look and privacy level they desire. "Glass Taste Test" gives homeowners the opportunity to select any door and apply any type of glass in a life-like setting.
A: If the desired door is not in local inventory, the Simpson Authorized Dealer will place an order for the door. Upon receipt of an order, Simpson will fulfill the order either via its inventory or will manufacture the door from scratch. Doors to be manufactured currently carry a 5-week lead-time (some custom doors can take longer). Add transit time and any prehang or finish work needed to arrive at the total turnaround time for the door.
A: WWood in general is a great insulator and can withstand just about anything Mother Nature sends its way as long as it is has protection. Protection in the form of a great finish and a building overhang. For tough exposures, Simpson offers a variety of products that can withstand more than your typical door. The Nantucket Collection™ includes doors made from wood species that have been evaluated and found to be especially weather-resistant: Douglas fir, Sapele Mahogany, Western Hemlock and Nootka Cypress.
A: You can get pricing from any Simpson Authorized Dealer. Simply contact a dealer with your design, size and other specifications directly or you can submit a “Get A Quote” request on any specific door through our online catalog. For help finding a dealer near you, go to our Where to Buy page.
A: Simpson doors are all wood. They are typically built in an engineered fashion, meaning each door component is made of multiple pieces of wood and then covered by veneer, resulting in a sturdier, straighter door. Door components can also be made of a single, solid piece of wood or in two-piece laminated construction upon request and subject to availability of material. (See our Details of Distinction video for more information on how Simpson doors are made.)
A: Not at this time. However, many Simpson doors carry u-factor and solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) ratings to meet or exceed many project or municipality requirements. For a full list of these ratings for each door, visit the Product Approvals page.
A: All Simpson Authorized Dealers have access to pricing information and tools to effectively quote Simpson doors. If you are unhappy with the service you are receiving from a particular dealer, please consider another dealer that services your area. To find a dealer near you, visit Where to Buy.
A: Most door veneers are 1/16” thick, much thicker than many inferior, imported doors on the market. This thickness allows for multiple refinishes over the life of the door. All Simpson doors are available with 1/4" and 1/8" thick veneers as an upgrade. If you have special needs that require components made from solid wood, that can be also done for an additional charge.
A: Both acronyms (SDL=Simulated Divided Lite, TDL=True Divided Lite) refer to the construction method used for a door that has the look of multiple panes of glass separated by bars. In TDL construction, the door includes multiple glass units held in place and separated by bars. In SDL construction, the door includes a single glass unit and bars are affixed to the face of the glass. Both construction types result in a door that looks nearly identical, and each technique has its own advantages. A Simpson Authorized Dealer can be consulted to see which method makes the most sense for a specific door.
A: We can make doors in any design, size and wood species. Therefore we can make any interior door to match an exterior door. And truly, any exterior door can be used in an interior application.
A: Warranties can differ based on door type. See the Warranties page for a complete explanation.
A: All authorized dealers are listed using a zip or postal code search at Where to Buy.
A: .dwg, .dxf, and .rfa files for most doors are available here.
A: Yes. Your Simpson Authorized Dealer can arrange pre-hanging of your door. To find a dealer near you, go to our Where to Buy page.
A: Simpson does not supply hardware for its doors. However, hardware can be obtained from a Simpson Authorized Dealer.
A: Simpson can build any door in any size. Simply indicate the specific size needed when placing your order.
A: Vertical grain.
A: These acronyms describe glass in a door. IG (insulated glazing, also known as double-paned glass) describes a glass unit made up of more than one piece of glass around a central airspace. This method of construction has proven to provide superior energy efficient characteristics vs. a single piece of glass. SG (single-glazed, also known as single-paned glass) indicates a single piece of glass for that unit, a common request for interior doors.
A: Exterior wood doors that have glass also have glazing compound. That glazing compound waterproofs the glass to the wood parts. Properly done, we expect to see some excess glazing compound squeeze out around these edges. You have to remove that before you can put the finish on the door or you’re going to get a poor finish.
Two mistakes that people use, is trying to use a razor knife and a razor scraper. The proper tool to use is an awl. An awl is round, it’s safe to the door. It also creates a good transition for the glazing compound. And to remove this all you need to do is press the awl firmly in against the glass itself and run right around the edge of the glazing bead or the sticking. It can be frustrating trying to use any other tool because it’ll take a long time, you’ll likely damage the door – you might even hurt yourself.
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